IMPERIAL RUSSIAN F. Lorie for Fabergé Diamond Nephrite Blue Guilloche 14k Earrings
Unique and extremely rare a pair of The End of the 19th CENTURY, A BEAUTIFUL Antique Vintage Imperial Russian F. Lorie for Fabergé Nephrite, Guilloché Enamel & Diamond Earrings
The relationship between F. Lorie and the House of Fabergé was a particularly close one. The two Moscow firms operated in the same building on Kuznetsky Most, Lorie is known to have produced work for Fabergé, and in 1912 the Lorie firm became part of Fabergé’s Moscow operation.
What makes this pair especially fascinating is that we have seen this design before.
Several years ago, we had an almost identical pair—rose gold, diamonds and the same vivid cobalt-blue guilloché enamel caps, but finished with pearl drops. That pair already bore Fabergé house hallmarks ( shown on one of the photos). The present nephrite pair, however, bears F. Lorie marks and remains in its F. Lorie box.
This gives us a fascinating glimpse into how the two firms may have worked together. We believe the nephrite earrings were most likely made by F. Lorie for Fabergé, before Lorie formally became part of Fabergé’s Moscow operation in 1912. The later Fabergé-marked pearl pair repeating essentially the same design gives particular weight to that attribution.
Crafted in 56 zolotnik (14K) rose gold, the earrings feature beautifully polished nephrite drops crowned with vivid cobalt-blue guilloché enamel caps and suspended from bezel-set diamonds. The combination of deep green nephrite, brilliant blue enamel, diamonds and warm rose gold feels wonderfully Russian—rich in color, sophisticated in execution and unmistakably Imperial.
The design takes the form of an acorn, a motif with a long history in jewelry and decorative arts. A symbol of strength, longevity and immortality, the acorn became particularly popular during the 19th century fascination with nature and jewelry carrying hidden meaning. In earlier traditions, acorns were even worn as amulets associated with longevity and protection from aging.
Nephrite adds another distinctly Russian element. Prized by Russian jewelers for its rich green color and beautifully polished surface, the hardstone became closely associated with the luxurious objects and jewels of the Imperial period—and was a particular favorite of Fabergé. Here, its smooth, substantial drops give the playful acorn design an unexpected richness, especially against the almost electric blue of the enamel.
More than a century later, the survival of these earrings—and the remarkable opportunity to compare them with their Fabergé-marked pearl counterparts—makes this pair particularly exciting. Two versions of essentially the same jewel, carrying the marks of two intimately connected Russian houses, offer a small but fascinating glimpse into the world of Imperial Moscow jewelry workshops.
Circa 1890–1912
Polished nephrite, guilloché enamel and rose cut diamonds
Old rose cut Diamonds 2.7mm, approx., 0.10ct each. Nicely matched, white and eye clean, H-I VS overall.
Jade Nephrite drops are approx. 11.16mmx10.40mm
Period F. Lorie box
Dimensions: approximately 34.20 x 10.30 mm
Weight: 9.90 grams
They have a European kidney bean wire back, extremely secure,
Russian hallmarks include “56” and “FL” in Cyrillic - F. Lorie maker’s mark.
The hallmarks on this pair, such as "56" zolotniks ( 14k - 583 gold) tell us that they were made in Russia during the Imperial Period before the Communists revolted, which resulted in the Revolution of 1917.
SUPER MINT CONDITION throughout; the enamel is exceptionally well preserved with no visible chips, cracks, or losses. Tells us that most likely it was staying in one family without being sold and re-sold.
TRULY ONE-OF-A-KIND!
Retail Value $12,900.
Comes with an APPRAISAL and in Period F. Lorie box
Russian Jewelry
Russian jewelry has had a checkered history. The history goes back to more than 1000 years. The beauty of Russian jewelry was actually introduced formally during the reign of Peter the Great in 1719. He created what is known as the State Diamond Fund. He decreed that state jewelry was sacrosanct. The Romanov family could add to the Russian jewelry but could not use it for personal gains. Thereafter true to his declaration he and all the imperial heads of the Russian monarchy kept adding to the state jewelry. The pieces were stored by Peter the Great in the Winter Palace of St Petersburg. Thereafter Elizabeth I, her nephew Peter III and his wife Catherine the Great all contributed liberally to the state jewelry that grew progressively. Russian jewelry survived WWI, the revolution of 1917, Russian Civil War and WWII. Despite the loss of a large proportion of the antique Russian jewels , once in a while we still able to find some very nice examples.
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We hope you enjoy looking at these fine pieces as much as we have enjoyed collecting them. All of our jewelry has been professionally appraised and/or certified, and is guaranteed authentic as described. We want you to be totally 100% satisfied with your purchase. They look even better in person than online!
We have personally gathered our collection from individuals, dealers, and estates around the world. We're crazy about Antique & Estate Jewelry and only buy what we love! Since 1999, we have sold to individual clients, antique dealers and customers around the world. We are very proud and excited to be able to offer these beautiful pieces to you!
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